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Something wrong?
Let's fix it.

Most Green APU problems have a simple cause — and you can check it yourself in a few minutes. Start below. If it needs us, we're on the phone 24/7.

Troubleshooting

Tell us what it's doing. We'll walk you through it.

Every answer, in writing

Common Green APU problems

The same 21 answers the tool above gives you — written out, so you (or a search engine) can read them straight.

The pressure switch — or you're low on refrigerant

Most common

A constant "A/C Pressure!" nearly always means the pressure switch isn't seeing enough refrigerant — either its connection is loose, or the system is low.

✅ Try this yourself

  1. Take the front cover off. Find the A/C pressure switch — it's under the fuse box, on the silver canister (the A/C drier). It has two red connectors.
  2. Push both red connectors on firmly. If they look dirty or corroded, clean them. A loose connector here is the #1 cause of this message.
  3. Put the cover back on and try it again.

☎ Call us — we'll walk you through it

  • Still showing the message? Call us. We'll give you a PIN and walk you through a 60-second test that tells us instantly whether the switch is bad or you're just low on refrigerant.

⚙ This one needs a shop

  • If you're low, a shop has to recharge it — the system takes exactly 1.7 lbs of R-134a. That needs an A/C machine, not a DIY can.

It can't shed heat

Usually a dirty condenser

When the message flashes on and off, pressure is climbing too high — almost always because the condenser (the radiator-looking part) is clogged, or its fan isn't running.

✅ Try this yourself

  1. 🔦 Shine a flashlight through the condenser from behind. Can you see light through it? If not — it's clogged, and that's your problem.
  2. Clean it. Coil cleaner and a regular garden hose. Never a pressure washer — it bends the fins and you'll ruin it permanently.
  3. With the A/C running, check the condenser fan is spinning. It should run non-stop in A/C mode.
  4. Fan not spinning? Check the 25A condenser fan fuse and swap it for the same rating.

☎ Call us — we'll walk you through it

  • Fuse is good but the fan still won't turn? Call us — we'll PIN you in and run the fan straight from the controller to see if it's the fan or the relay.

The compressor isn't kicking in

Compressor

No click means the compressor clutch never pulls in. Two easy things to rule out first.

✅ Try this yourself

  1. Check the 10A compressor fuse. Replace with the same rating if blown.
  2. Make sure your set temperature is well below the cab temperature — if it doesn't think you want cooling, it won't engage.

☎ Call us — we'll walk you through it

  • Fuse is fine and still no click? Call us. We'll PIN you into the controller and fire the compressor directly — that tells us in 30 seconds whether it's the clutch, the relay, or a sensor.

⚙ This one needs a shop

  • If it's the clutch or the freeze sensor, that's a shop job.

It's running — but the cold isn't reaching you

Airflow or charge

The compressor works. So either the cold air isn't getting to you, or there isn't enough refrigerant to make cold in the first place.

✅ Try this yourself

  1. Check the cabin air filter — it's in front of the HVAC box inside the cab. If it's packed with dust, clean or replace it. Cheap, common, and fixes this more often than you'd think.
  2. Check the condenser is clean (shine a light through it) and the fan is spinning.

⚙ This one needs a shop

  • Low refrigerant — enough to engage the clutch, not enough to cool. A shop recharges to 1.7 lbs of R-134a.
  • Could also be a restriction or the evaporator icing over. Both are shop jobs.

It just isn't warm yet

Not broken

This is normal. The blower doesn't turn on until the coolant hits 130°F — on purpose, so it doesn't blow cold air at you while it warms up.

✅ Try this yourself

  1. Give it 5–10 minutes. The blower comes on by itself once it's warm.
  2. Want to watch it? Diagnostics → Basic → General and watch WTMP climb. At 130°F the blower kicks in.
  3. If WTMP never reaches 130 — or it looks nothing like your truck's temp gauge — come back and call us.

It doesn't think you want heat

Easy fix

The unit only heats when your set temperature is higher than the cab temperature. If it's not saying HEAT, one of those two numbers is off.

✅ Try this yourself

  1. Turn your set temperature up — it needs to be a couple degrees above the current cab temp before it will call for heat.
  2. Check Diagnostics → Basic → General and look at ATMP (cab temp). Does it match how it actually feels in there?
  3. If ATMP is way off, make sure the controller isn't sitting in the airflow from a vent — air blowing on the sensor gives a false reading.

⚙ This one needs a shop

  • If ATMP is still wrong with nothing blowing on it, the sensor inside the controller needs replacing — shop job.

You've got air trapped in the system

Air in the coolant

Weak heat is almost always an air bubble in the coolant. Good news — you can burp it out yourself.

✅ Try this yourself

  1. Turn the APU on, set the temp all the way up, Heat Only mode.
  2. Take the cap off your truck's coolant reservoir, then start the truck.
  3. Run both the truck and the APU for 5+ minutes.
  4. Shut the truck off. Let the APU keep running 20 minutes.
  5. Shut the APU off, top up the coolant, put the cap back on. That fixes it most of the time.
  6. Also check your coolant hoses for kinks — a pinched hose kills heat.

⚙ This one needs a shop

  • Still weak after burping it? Could be the water valve or thermostat — a shop can test both quickly.

It's not getting power — check the fuses

Power

A dead screen is almost always a fuse or a battery cable. You can check every one of these with a flashlight.

✅ Try this yourself

  1. Check the 150A main fuse on your truck batteries — the big one.
  2. Check the 2A controller fuse — inside the APU's fuse box.
  3. Check the 175A ground fuse — bottom of the APU frame.
  4. Look at your battery cables. They must connect across all four batteries — never both positive and negative on one battery. If anyone worked on the truck recently, suspect this first.
  5. Make sure the harness plug at the top-right of the APU is fully seated. It gets bumped loose.
  6. Screen faint but readable at an angle? That's just contrast — Diagnostics → Advanced → Adjust Contrast, set it to 08.

☎ Call us — we'll walk you through it

  • All fuses good, cables tight, still dead? Call us.

Check your fuel level first

#1 cause of this call

If it cranks fine but never fires, it's not getting fuel. And the most common reason is embarrassingly simple.

✅ Try this yourself

  1. 🔴 Is your truck tank above 1/4? The APU's fuel pickup does not reach the bottom of the tank. Below a quarter tank it starves — even though your truck runs fine. This is the #1 cause of this call.
  2. Fuel up above 1/4 and try again.
  3. Change the fuel filter if it's old — pre-fill the new one with diesel and it'll start easier.
  4. Check the air filter while you're in there.

☎ Call us — we'll walk you through it

  • Tank's full and it still won't fire? Call us. There's probably air in the fuel lines — we'll PIN you in and walk you through bleeding it out on the phone. Takes a few minutes.

⚙ This one needs a shop

  • If bleeding it doesn't do it, a shop needs to look at the fuel pump or injection pump.

Something shut it down — let's find out what

Stored fault

It won't start while a fault is active. The unit remembers what it saw, and you can read it yourself.

✅ Try this yourself

  1. Go to Diagnostics → Last Shutdown. It shows the last fault and a voltage.
  2. If it says Run Failure → hit "Start over" below and pick "It shuts down on its own."
  3. If it says Overheat → check your coolant level first.

☎ Call us — we'll walk you through it

  • Not sure what the code means? Call us and read it to us — we'll tell you exactly what it saw.

It's not getting enough juice to crank

Batteries

A slow crank means weak power reaching the starter — or something binding mechanically.

✅ Try this yourself

  1. Check your batteries. A healthy one rests at 12.5–12.8V. Old or weak batteries cause exactly this.
  2. Clean the battery terminals. Corrosion is a very common cause.
  3. Make sure the cables land across all four batteries, tight.
  4. Check the air filter and exhaust aren't blocked.

⚙ This one needs a shop

  • Batteries are strong and it still cranks slow? Something's binding mechanically. Stop cranking it and get it to a shop — you can do real damage.

The starter isn't turning

Starter circuit

Countdown runs, then nothing happens. Usually a fuse.

✅ Try this yourself

  1. Check the 30A starter fuse.
  2. Check the starter cable connections — corroded or loose is common. Clean them up.
  3. Make sure the exhaust and air filter aren't blocked.

☎ Call us — we'll walk you through it

  • Fuse is good and it still won't turn? Call us — we'll PIN you in and fire the starter directly to see if it's the starter or the relay.

That's supposed to happen

Not broken

Your APU is working exactly as designed. It shuts itself down about 5 minutes after your truck engine starts — because you don't need both running. Nothing is wrong.

✅ Try this yourself

  1. If the truck was running: you're fine. Nothing to fix.
  2. If the truck was OFF and it still shut down — then a sensing wire is likely damaged or on the wrong terminal. Give us a call.

☎ Call us — we'll walk you through it

  • Shutting down with the truck off? Call us — we can switch that feature off from the controller while you get the wire sorted.

It shut itself down over oil pressure

Check the oil

A clean shutdown means the controller chose to stop — most often because it lost the oil pressure signal. The usual reason is the simplest one.

✅ Try this yourself

  1. 🔴 Check your oil level. Pull the dipstick. If it's low, top it up — HD synthetic diesel, 10w30 or 15w40. This is the most common cause, full stop.
  2. Check the 25A fuel solenoid fuse while you're there.
  3. Top up the oil and try it again.

☎ Call us — we'll walk you through it

  • Oil is full and it still shuts down clean? Call us. We'll PIN you in and test the oil pressure switch and fuel solenoid over the phone — 5 minutes and we'll know exactly which one it is.

It's starving for fuel

Fuel starvation

Sputtering and dying means it isn't getting steady fuel. Same suspects as a no-start.

✅ Try this yourself

  1. 🔴 Is the truck tank above 1/4? The APU pickup doesn't reach the bottom of the tank. Most common cause.
  2. Change the fuel filter — pre-fill the new one with diesel.
  3. Change the air filter.

☎ Call us — we'll walk you through it

  • Still sputtering with fuel and fresh filters? Call us — likely air in the lines, and we'll walk you through bleeding it.

⚙ This one needs a shop

  • If bleeding doesn't fix it, a shop needs to check the fuel pump and compression.

It's running too hot

Overheat

The overheat shutdown is protecting your engine. Usually it's air in the coolant — or heat carried over from your truck.

✅ Try this yourself

  1. 🔴 Let the truck cool before you switch over. Idle it 5–10 minutes before shutdown — otherwise you dump the truck engine's heat straight into the APU. This alone fixes a lot of these.
  2. Check your coolant level.
  3. Purge the air out: APU on, temp all the way up, Heat Only. Cap off the truck reservoir, run the truck 5 min, shut it off, let the APU run 20–30 min. Top up coolant, cap it.
  4. Check the coolant hoses for kinks or rubbing.
  5. Check your truck's radiator cap.

⚙ This one needs a shop

  • Still overheating after all that? Get it to a shop — could be the overheat switch or temp sensor.

It probably isn't switched on

Usually not a fault

Nine times out of ten nothing is broken — battery monitoring just isn't armed, or your batteries are already fine.

✅ Try this yourself

  1. 🔴 Battery Monitoring has to be turned on manually, every single time you want it. Select it from the menu and press the knob. It does not stay on. This is the #1 reason for this call.
  2. It only kicks in below 12.6V. If your batteries are above that, it's supposed to sit there doing nothing.
  3. Engine preheat only starts below 40°F coolant.
  4. Check your battery cables are tight and across all four batteries.

⚙ This one needs a shop

  • Batteries are low, it's armed, and it still won't start? Test the batteries — weak ones get replaced.

Something's draining them — or they're done

Batteries

If it keeps waking up, your batteries aren't holding voltage.

✅ Try this yourself

  1. Test each battery. A healthy one rests at 12.5–12.8V. Old or weak ones need replacing — usually this is the answer.
  2. Clean the terminals and make sure the cables land across all four batteries, not just one.
  3. Think about anything on the truck that could be draining them overnight.

☎ Call us — we'll walk you through it

  • Batteries test fine and it still starts constantly? Call us — the charging set point may need adjusting.

It can't reach its target

Never satisfied

It runs and runs because it never sees the condition it's waiting for.

✅ Try this yourself

  1. There's a 2-hour run limit — if it hasn't hit that yet, some running is expected.
  2. Test your batteries. If they won't accept a charge anymore, it will never reach the set point and will just keep running.

☎ Call us — we'll walk you through it

  • Batteries are good and it still won't stop? Call us — the coolant temp sensor may be disconnected, which makes it think it never warmed up.

A sensor circuit is unhappy

Sensor

Even in charging mode the unit watches its safety circuits. An error here means one of them isn't reading right.

✅ Try this yourself

  1. Check your oil level first — low oil trips the oil pressure circuit.
  2. In cold weather, thick oil can trip it too. Let it warm up and try again.
  3. Check your coolant level.

☎ Call us — we'll walk you through it

  • Oil and coolant are fine and it still errors? Call us — we'll PIN you in and test the oil pressure and overheat switches over the phone.

The blower isn't moving air

Blower

No airflow means neither heat nor cold can reach you, no matter what else works. Fix this first.

✅ Try this yourself

  1. Check the 25A blower fuse. Replace with the same rating. This is usually it.
  2. Test the blower yourself: Diagnostics → Basic → Blower Test — turn the knob up (0 to 255) until you hear and feel air. Nothing at any setting? The motor or relay is bad.
  3. Check the wiring connectors for corrosion.

⚙ This one needs a shop

  • Fuse is good and the blower test does nothing? The motor or relay needs replacing — shop job.

Every 1,000 hours

Preventive maintenance keeps the warranty honest

One service, every 1,000 hours of runtime. Every part on this list is a standard automotive part you can buy at any parts store.

The 1,000-hour service

Engine oil
Heavy-duty synthetic 10W30 or 15W40
Oil filter
Standard automotive — any parts store
Fuel filter
Replace every service
Air filter
Inspect, replace if dirty
Belt
Check for cracks, glazing, tension
Coolant + hoses
Top off, inspect for leaks
Condenser
Clean it — #1 cause of weak cooling
Batteries
Clean terminals, check they are tight

Fuses

2A
Controller
10A
Compressor
25A
Blower / condenser / fuel solenoid
30A
Starter / glow plugs
150A
Main
175A
Ground

Blown fuse? Something caused it. Replace it once — if it goes again, stop and call us.

Full reference

Green APU Operations Manual

Every spec, setting, and procedure for the Star Edition — the complete owner's manual.

Download PDF

Installation requirements

You need 24 inches of frame rail

That's the one hard requirement — 24" of clear, unobstructed frame rail to mount the unit. Everything else works around it.

A bad install is the single biggest driver of warranty claims, which is why Green APU is installed through authorized locations. Find one near you and it's done right the first time.

Installation diagram showing the 24 inch minimum clear frame rail required to mount a Green APU
24" minimum clear frame rail

Still stuck? Call us.

A real USA-based technician, 24 hours a day, for the life of the unit — not just the warranty. Some diagnostics need a PIN we give you over the phone — so calling isn't a last resort, it's part of how this works.